I’ve had this idea in my head for a while. When I was making my Zigzag Scarf and Diamond Cowl patterns I noticed that this stitch results in a firm fabric. Dense and cosy for a scarf, but when worked with a slightly smaller hook it becomes stiff and therefore ideal for baskets!
When I got all this yarn from my Great Aunty Di this was one of the projects I thought I’d make. I had about 200g of dk yarn in several part used balls of grey, all very similar but I knew it would show that they were different if I tried to use them all in one item – unless I crocheted something with them all held together!
Update 21/08/2014: You can view my video of the stitch pattern here!
I used 3 strands at once and a 6mm hook. You really could use a mix of different colours and yarn weights if you prefer.
I designed the pattern so that it can size up or down depending on your needs and yarn supply. Just make more or less rounds for the base! To get the proportions right I used about a quarter of the weight of yarn I had (46g) for the base before moving on to the sides. So if you want to make a larger basket using stash yarn just weigh it first and use about a quarter for the base! Mine turned out to be 9 inches wide and 6.5 inches high (23x17cm).
Scroll down for pdf patterns! (US and UK notation)
- 200g of either 3 strands of dk weight yarn or 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, held together.
- 6mm crochet hook.
Special stitch: Front post treble 2 together (fptrc2tog). This makes a V-shaped stitch in front of the work with the two arms of the V being worked around the posts of the stitches 2 rows below. All the V’s worked side by side make one half of the diamond pattern. Work the first fptrc2tog as follows:
- Yarn over hook twice, insert hook horizontally (from front to back to front again) behind the “post” of the 2nd dc in the row below, yarn over hook and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook). *Yarn over hook, draw through 2 loops, repeat from *, 2 loops left on hook (one arm of the V made).
- Yarn over hook twice, skip 3 dc posts, insert hook horizontally behind the next post. Yarn over hook and draw up a loop (5 loops on hook). *Yarn over hook, draw through 2 loops, repeat from *, 3 loops left on hook. Yarn over hook, draw through all three loops.
- There will be an “unworked” stitch left in the row below (behind the newly made fptrc2tog stitch).
The remaining fptrc2tog stitches of the first round using the stitch are worked the same way – with the first arm of the V worked around the same post as the last arm of the previous stitch. After the first round using this stitch the fptrc2tog stitch is worked around the top of the previous fptr2tog stitches rather than the dc posts.
Update 21/08/2014: You can view my video of this stitch here!
The basket is worked in the round from the base up.
Begin with a magic ring, Ch2
R1: 8hdc into magic ring, pull ring closed, sl-st to join, ch1 (8sts)
R2: (2hdc) in each st around, sl-st to join, ch1 (16sts)
R3: *(2hdc), hdc, repeat from *, sl-st to join, ch1 (24sts)
R4: *(2hdc), 2hdc, repeat from *, sl-st to join, ch1 (32sts)
R5: *(2hdc), 3hdc, repeat from *, sl-st to join, ch1 (40sts)
R6: *(2hdc), 4hdc, repeat from *, sl-st to join, ch1 (48sts)
R7: *(2hdc), 5hdc, repeat from *, sl-st to join, ch1 (56sts)
R8: *(2hdc), 6hdc, repeat from *, sl-st to join, ch1 (64sts)
R9: *(2hdc), 7hdc, repeat from *, sl-st to join, ch1 (72sts)
R10: *(2hdc), 8hdc, repeat from *, sl-st to join, ch1 (80sts)
R11: *(2hdc), 9hdc, repeat from *, sl-st to join, ch1 (88sts)
If you prefer a larger sized basket, you can continue in expansion pattern – just finish the base with a sl-st into the back loop only. My basket (pictured) had a base stopping at round 11.
R12: Turn and work this round into the front loop only. Ch2 (counts as dc), dc into each st around, join with a sl-st (88sts)
In round 13 the fptrc2tog stitches are worked around the dc posts of the row below.
R13: ch1 (counts as sc), turn, 2sc, fptrc2tog, *3sc, fptrc2tog, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st into first ch (22 fptrc2tog sts & 66sc sts – 88 sts total).
R14: ch2 (counts as dc), turn, dc into each st around, join with a sl-st (88sts)
In round 15 the fptrc2tog stitches are worked around the tops of the fptrc2tog sts 2 rows below. This forms the diamond pattern.
R15: ch1 (counts as sc), turn, fptrc2tog, *3sc, fptrc2tog, repeat from * around, 2sc, join with a sl-st into first ch (22 fptrc2tog sts & 66sts – 88sts total).
R16: Repeat round 14.
R17: Repeat round 13, working the fptrc2tog sts around the tops of the fptrc2tog sts 2 rows below.
Repeat rounds 14-17 until your basket is the desired height for handles – I took 6 more rounds (i.e. made mine 2.5 diamonds high to the handle). You will need to complete either a R15 or 17.
Handles: This step neatens up the edge of the basket under where the handles will be.
If you just completed a R15: do not turn.
If you just completed a R17: do not turn. Make 2 regular sl-sts – one in each of next 2 sc. You should end up with a fptrc2tog st as next st to be worked.
Now for both cases:
Working in the back loop only, sl-st 12 times, and then work a sl-st through both loops of the next st to secure (this should give a stretch of sl-sts from the top of one diamond point to another 3 points away).
Break yarn and skip 32 sts, re-join the yarn with a sl-st in the back loop of the next st (it will be a fptrc2tog st).
Working in the back loop only, sl-st 12 times, and then work a sl-st through both loops of the next st to secure (this should give a second stretch of sl-sts from the top of one diamond point to another 3 points away, directly opposite to the first stretch).
Do not break yarn – work the remaining handle rounds (HR) as follows:
HR1: Ch2, (counts as a dc), turn work. Ch 12, sk 12 sl-sts just made, dc in next st, dc in each of next 31 sts (until you reach the next stretch of sl-sts), ch12, sk 12 sl-sts, dc in next st, dc in each of next 30 sts, sl-st into top of turning chain to join. (64 dc’s and two ch-12 spaces- the handles)
The second round of the handle is worked in pattern as for main body of basket, but with alterations at the handle areas.
HR2: ch1 and turn. Sc, *fptrc2tog, 3sc, repeat 6 times, fptrc2tog, sc. (There should be one st left on the body of the basket before the ch.) hdc2tog over next 2 sts (1 on main basket and first ch of handle), 2hdc, (2hdc) in next ch, 4hdc, (2hdc) in next ch, 2hdc, hdc2tog (this will be in the final ch and 1st st back onto main body. Repeat from * join into first sc with a sl-st. (88 sts)
HR3: *working in the back loop only, sl st 30 times (i.e.until the next hdc2 tog in row below). Working through both loops, sc 14 times (across the handle top). Repeat from *, and finish with an invisible join into the next st (or a sl-st if you prefer).
Fasten off and weave in ends.
I do not recommend blocking this piece – we want the fibres to stay nice and stiff so that the basket has structure!
If you make this basket in a larger size then please do let me know how much yarn you take – I’m sure it will help others making this project.
What will you use yours for?
1. The original pattern contained a couple of errors (as you will see from the comments!) I have corrected for these and updated the pattern in both the blog post and pdf patterns.
2. Some users (but not all) are having some difficulty viewing the pdf patterns. They appear to be showing the text in white on a white background. I am looking into what could cause this; please accept my apologies in the meantime, and if anyone is more of a computer tech than I am and knows what causes this please let me know!
The fabulous Marjolaine of Planete Laine has translated this pattern into French – you find it here!