If you follow me on facebook, you’ll have seen that this project has been near completion for a while. One of the problems I often come across is running out of yarn. I really don’t like to overbuy and of course when you are making something up as you go it is hard to gauge what you’ll need!
I was experimenting with a regular spot stitch for another project and thought it would work well for a basket given the thickness it adds to the fabric. So here I’ve merged it with post stitches (like my Diamond Trellis Basket) to add even more stability to the basket sides.
If you’ve already made my Diamond Trellis or Rectangular Diamond Trellis baskets then this one will be easy peasy. It’s a similar principle of using post stitches across the work but uses only dc’s and no trebles! (US notation)
Use a super chunky yarn like me, or try holding 2 or 3 strands of worsted or dk yarn together. If in doubt about the thickness of the fabric, go down a hook size!
This design is also customisable; just make sure you work an even number of rounds to the base so that you end up with a multiple of 8 sts, before you start the sides.
My basket turned out 28cm (11″) across.
Scroll down for pdf patterns! (US and UK notation)
- Size 7mm hook
- 265m (350g) Super Chunky yarn (recommended hook size 10mm) – I used Erika Knight for John Lewis’s Super Chunky – 2 balls of grey, 1 blue and 1 cream ball.
Some wool content in your yarn will give structure to the basket – this is a good project for using up scratchy yarn!
Special Stitch – Spot stitch
This is made by working a dc5tog into one stitch:
*Yarn over hook, insert st, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, repeat from * 4 more times so that there are 6 loops on the hook, yarn over, draw through all 6 loops. (You may need to poke the spot to the front of the work after working the sc which follows this stitch.)
Special stitch – fpdc2tog
These are worked around the post stitches made in the row below. The first of the fpdc’s is worked about the post you have just crocheted past, and the second is about the next post stitch up ahead, so as to make a wide “v” shape around the spot stitch (which will be centred below this stitch):
Yarn over hook, insert hook about the post stitch from the round below, yarn over hook, draw up a loop, yarn over draw through two loops (two loops left on hook). Yarn over hook, Insert hook through next post stitch along, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through two loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 3 loops.
Don’t forget that your post stitch will leave an unworked stitch behind the front of the stitch. You will not be working in this stitch.
The next fpdc2tog in the round will be worked about the same post stitch as just used, and the next one along.
See my video tutorial on the fptrc2tog stitch, which is very similar in principle, if you are confused!
The basket is worked seamlessly in the round from the centre base out. Stitches in brackets () are all to be worked into the next stitch.
Example shown works the base in double rounds of blue and white (you can use your preferred colours). (Note – you can follow the base instructions for my Diamond Trellis Basket if you prefer to work in hdc for a slightly stiffer base – I have used dc stitches in this basket as I know a few people had difficulty with the hdc base lying flat.)
Begin with a magic ring.
R1: Ch2 (counts as dc), 11dc into circle, join with a sl-st, pull circle closed [12 sts]
R2: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, (2dc) into each st around, join with a sl-st [24sts]
R3: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [36sts]
R4: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *2dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 2dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [48sts]
R5: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *3dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 3dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [60sts]
R6: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *4dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 4dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [72sts]
R7: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *5dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 5dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [84sts]
R8: Ch2 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *6dc, (2dc), repeat from * 10 times, 6dc, join with a sl-st to top of chain [96sts]
If you prefer a larger base then continue to work in expansion pattern (or stop prior to round 8 if you want a smaller one). Work an even number of rounds so that you finish the base on a multiple of 8 sts – each round will now have this number of stitches for the sides of the basket.
If you are not already using it, switch to the colour you will be using for your hexagon post stitches (grey in example pictured).
R9: Working in the back loops only, ch 1, sc in each stitch around, sl-st to join [96 sts]
Switch to the colour of your first spot round (blue in example)
R10: ch1, *sc in each of next 3 sts, spot stitch, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st [96sts]
Switch to your hexagon post stitch colour (grey in example)
All fpdc’s in round 11 are worked about the sc two rows below – it will be the same colour yarn as you are currently using and should make a vertical st in between the spot sts.
R11: ch1, sc, fpdc, *sc in next 3 sts, fpdc, repeat from * 22 more times, sc in each of last two sts, join with a sl-st [96sts]
R12: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, fpdc2tog, repeat from * 23 more times, join with a sl-st into first st [96sts]
Switch to your next spot colour yarn (cream in example)
R13: ch1, sc, *spot stitch, sc in each of next 3 sts, repeat from * 22 more times, spot stitch, sc in each of last 2 sts [96 sts]
Switch to your hexagon post stitch colour (grey in example).
All fpdc’s in round 14 and throughout the remainder of the project are worked about the fpdc2tog sts made in the round two below where you are working.
R14: ch1, *sc in each of next 3 sts, fpdc, repeat from * 23 more times, join with a sl-st [96 sts]
R15: ch1, sc, *fpdc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, repeat from * 22 more times, fpdc2tog, sc in each of last 2 sts, join with a sl-st [96 sts]
Repeat rounds 10-15 until basket is desired height. Finish on a round 11 or 14.
If you just worked a fpdc at the end of your last round, join with a sl-st in the back loop only.
If you just worked 2sc, join with a sl-st and work 2 more sl-sts. Sl-st in the back loop only of the next st.
Work 10 more sl-sts in the back loop only, sl-st through both loops of next st. Ch12, turn and skip the 11 sts made in the back loop only, sl-st in next st. Fasten off and turn to work in the usual direction.
Count 48 sts (or half of your total stitch count, if you have made a custom size) around from where you fastened off and rejoin the yarn to repeat making the second handle loop. You should be joining into a fpdc st.
Work 11 sl-sts in the back loop only, sl-st through both loops of the next st, ch12, turn, sl-st into the joining st. Sl-st into the next st, ch1, and turn.
R16: hdc2tog working into the current st and the st prior to the handle chain. Work 13 hdc over the chain, hdc2tog over the first two stitches after the chain. Now work in pattern over the next section:
[*dc2tog, 3sc, repeat from * 7 times, dc2tog], hdc2tog (over the last 2 sts before the chain), 13hdc into handle chain, hdc2tog over first two stitches after chain, repeat everything inside , join with a sl-st.
R17: Ch1, *hdc2tog (this will be in the hdc2tog and a regular hdc), hdc, (2hdc), 7hdc, (2hdc), hdc, hdc2tog, sc, sl-st in back loop only 31 times, sc, repeat from *, join with a sl-st.
Optional: To edge the base, join the main colour (grey) to the unworked front loops which run around the basket edge. Sl-st into each loop around. (I did this because my base gauge was looser at the base and this tightened the edge up to stop the edges sloping out at the bottom).
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
A note on changing colours:
You can fasten off your colours at the end of each round and then crochet over the ends as you go to save weaving in (this works ok as you can see the fabric is quite dense so good at hiding them), or weave in as normal. Alternatively strand the main colour (grey) up the inside of the basket where it is hardly visible.
What colours will you use for yours?