Multiplicity Buttoned Shawl

I’m so excited to share this latest pattern with you all! I love it for its versatility – and possibly even more than my shooting stars cowl

It’s called multiplicity because there are so many ways to wear it.  So far I have counted about 10!  The other awesome thing is that this can easily be turned into a full triangle shaped shawl, just keep on crocheting.

Multiplicity Shawl - ways to wear it

Multiplicity Shawl – ways to wear it

I used this beautiful yarn from travelknitter, purchased at Abstract, which is well worth stopping by if you live in London (you can also buy this via travel knitter’s etsy shop).  It’s a gorgeously soft blend of camel and silk.  However, you can make this in any sock weight yarn you have, or adjust the number of repeats to match you yarn thickness and hook size.

Scroll down for pdf patterns and chart (US and UK notation, and also now available in German).


  • 400m sock weight yarn (more if you are turning this into a shawl – I estimate 600m)
  • 3mm hook
  • 17x 12mm buttons, or your preferred number and size (you will need to adjust the buttonhole placement).

You could also try this in a heavier or lighter weight yarn and matching hook size and adjust the starting chain length accordingly.


My unblocked measurements were: 115cm (long edge), 60 cm (top edge), 39cm (slanted edges), 20cm (width).

Once blocked the piece measured 127cm (long edge), 67 cm (top edge), 41cm (slanted edges), 27cm (width).

Multiplicity Shawl details

Multiplicity Shawl details


The scarf is worked in a trapeze shape by beginning on the long edge and decreasing each row.  Each row gets faster and faster as you near the end, which I quite like, and it also enables you to work less rows if you are facing running out of yarn….

Once the main body is complete you will work the buttonhole edge, a border onto the long edge, and then finally the button edge.

Cluster:  Fan

The fan cluster is worked into a single chain for the foundation row and into a ch1 space on remaining rows.  Work as follows:  (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc)

Main body

After the foundation rows this is a simple two row repeat.  The repeat for the chains is 8chs – add or subtract multiples of 8 from the starting chain to adjust the pattern.

Ch 280 + 2 (this makes for 36 repeats on row 1)

R1: Fan in 6th chain from hook, *ch1, skip 3 chs, sc, skip 3 chs, ch1, fan in next ch, repeat from * 34 more times, ch1, sk 3 chs, sc in final ch (36 fans)

Multiplicity Shawl Row 1 and 2 close up

Multiplicity Shawl Row 1 and 2 close up

Row 2 is a set up row for the next row of fans.

R2: ch3, turn, sk 1st ch-sp (between last sc and dc just worked), sc into next ch-sp, ch3, sc into centre dc of this fan.  *Ch2, sk next ch sp, dc into next ch-sp, ch1, skip 2 ch sps (before and after sc), dc into next ch sp, ch2, sc into centre dc of fan, repeat from * 34 times (35 sets of 3 ch-sps)

R3: Turn, ch1. *Ch1, skip ch-sp, fan into next ch-sp, sk ch-sp, ch1, sc into sc, repeat from * to end (35 fans)

Repeat row 2 and 3 until your piece is the desired width, finishing on a row 3.  The example pictured finishes after 35 rows (19 fans in final row).  Do not fasten off.

Triangle Shawl Aside: If you are making this into a triangle shawl just keep going until only one fan remains!  Then work the ch3, sc repeat as you have up one side (from the start of every row 2) around the top of the final shell and down the other side.  Use these loops to add your desired border or add the same one as for the buttonhole edge row 3 detailed below.

Buttonhole edge (BH)

ch3, turn, sk 1st ch1 space (between last sc and dc just worked), sc into next ch-sp. Ch1, turn.

Now work back down the ch3 sps made at the start of each row 2 and make buttonhole loops.  You can adjust the buttonhole number and size on this row, just make sure to work 3 sts or chs for each chain space.  BH R1 makes buttonholes 3chs wide.

BH R1: *3sc into ch-sp, ch3, skip ch-sp, repeat from * till one ch-sp remains, 3sc in ch-sp. (17 buttonholes, separated by 3sc on all sides)

BH R2: ch1, turn, sc in every st and ch evenly across (105sts)

Depending on how thick you would like this row add another row of sc.  If you do so, fasten off the yarn and reattach at the first st of BH R2 to work in the same direction just worked.  We are going to work an edge of fans along this edge and then across the long edge of the shawl.  The edge of fans is designed to match the buttonhole placement so please adjust if you like to your own button holes.

BH R3: ch 1, sk 3 sts, fan, sk 2 sts, sl-st, *ch 1, sk 2 sts, fan, sk 2 sts, sl-st, repeat from * until end, 3 sc in final st to start to turn the corner (17 fans and 3 sc)

Long Edge border (LE)

The fans for this edge are offset from the very first row of fans as I felt this looked better than lining them up.  However please adjust if you prefer an alternate placement!

LE R1: ch 1, sk the sides of the sts from BHR1 and 2, fan into first ch of foundation ch, *sk 3 sts, sl-st, sk 3 sts, fan, repeat from * until end, ch3 and sl-st into final st (37 fans).

The ch3 just made will be slip stitched into to join the fan to the button edge, so don’t worry that the final fan sticks out a little.

Button Edge (BE)

This edge forms the button band and is predominantly hidden if you wear the scarf buttoned.  If you intend to wear the scarf open then you may want to add a row of fans (as per BH R3) – but I didn’t bother!

BE R1:  *ch3, sk ch-sp, sc in next ch-sp, ch3, sk ch-sp, sc in dc which is in the middle of this fan, repeat from * to end (35 ch-sps)

BE R2: ch2, turn, (hdc2tog, hdc) into ch sp, 3hdc into each ch-sp to end, sl-st into the first and second of the ch3 made at the end of LE R1.

BE R3: turn, hdc into each st until only 2 sts remain, hdc2tog.

Repeat rows of hdc until the button band is your desired width, decreasing at the top end to keep the line of the edge even.


Fasten off and weave in all ends.  I really recommend wet blocking this piece – crocheting the edges may have stretched the piece out on the sides, and the pattern opens up (and looks prettier) in particular when blocked widthways.

Multiplicity Shawl Blocking (before and after)

Multiplicity Shawl Blocking (before and after)

Pin to shape making sure that the buttonhole edge and button band edge are the lame length.

Once blocked, sew buttons onto button band opposite the buttonholes.  Then see if you can think of any more ways to wear it!

Downloadable pdf patterns:

Multiplicity Shawl US

Multiplicity Shawl UK

Multiplicity Shawl Chart

Multiplicity Buttoned Shawl Deutsche Version (Kindly translated by Jemely – find her on Ravelry)


83 thoughts on “Multiplicity Buttoned Shawl

  1. Wow! What a great design. Great for taking on holidays when space is in view. How about making it reversible?

  2. I’m looking forward to making this but the pdf patterns for US and UK seem to be the same. Am I missing something? Thanks for sharing it!

    • Hi Kitty! The notation is different, but apart from that the patterns are the same. For example the fan cluster is worked with dc’s (US version) or tr’s (UK version). But all the text and photos are the same.

      • Thanks, Esther! I didn’t read carefully enough to see that the notations ARE different. I saw metric measurements for both and thought the pdf’s were exactly the same. (Much of the US is metric-illiterate -I’m one of those- but I can translate the lengths; there’s an app for that!)

    • Hi Teresa! Sorry, no videos as I don’t have a video camera. But hopefully the chart will help you, or get in touch if you have any problems, I’ll do my best to help!

  3. This is a fantastic pattern, wow and free!! I am making one of these right away. So classic and won’t go out of style. Thank you. I will send a pic when I am done, going for (of course) classic black and pink and yellow. Where do I send pic to?

  4. Such a fun idea, and so versatile. Thanks so much for your generosity in sharing this. I’m looking forward to making it and wearing it in all the fun ways you’ve shown too.

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  6. Beautiful- already planning yarn choice.
    I read through the pattern and just need to know where the first * belongs in BH Row 1?

    For some reason, PDF wilk not download today.

  7. I really don’t mean to KNIT pick, but should the pattern instead read *ch1, ship 3 chs, sc, ch 1, skip 3 ch, fan in next ch, repeat from *

    Currently working it up now and was a little confused.

  8. Love this pattern!!! I started last night and I have a question…kind of silly…how do I decrease the rows? Row 3 has 35 fans like the first row, when does the decrease start? Thanks!!!

  9. I’m not sure if the yarn I have is the right weight or not. It says lace, but it looks bigger to me. Can you tell me the gauge? For instance, what a couple fans unblocked would be. I really LOVE this pattern and hope it will work with the new yarn I got.

    • Hi Tammy – my version is blocked now so I can’t get you that information. I used sock (fingering/4ply) yarn – if you are using lace it will be lighter so you may want to add a few stitch repeats to get the length. Gauge is not critical to this one so I wouldn’t worry too much – if your starting chain is close to the unblocked length of 115cm (which includes the edging added after the main portion is worked) then you’ll be fine! You can then decide for yourself how many decrease rows to work to get similar dimensions to mine (or however many suits you)!

  10. It’s really a great pattern!! I have made my first and it won’t be my last! Thanks a lot!
    I will refer to your blog when telling about it on my danish blog.

    • Hi Michelle! Sorry you are having trouble. Here’s a close up photo of row 1 and row 2 in the post as well as a pdf chart. Can you have a look at these and tell me how yours is different?

      • I think I got it now thanks. I forget each row was decreasing at the beginning of the 2nd row looked off at first.
        But did have a question if I was making it smaller… How many multiples of what do I need to calculate to know how many to chain?

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  14. Aprox how long dI’d it take everyone? I have several projects going on and didn’t want to add another, needed a short break from everything and am hoping this will be it, if it takes too long I will wait till I have more tome to devote. I am an avid crocheter, everything from blankets to doilies … no clothes so thought this would be a good place to start :)

    • Hi Tami! I suppose it depends on how long it would normally take you to use a skein of sock yarn (400m). It always takes me longer because I am figuring out the pattern as I go! It sounds like you’d be able to do it in an evening or two given how much you crochet!

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  16. What a lovely and versatile pattern! Thank you so much for sharing! And your good photos and the CHART is VERY MUCH appreciated! I have following written patterns and videos is just such a drag to watch, I’m in love with charts – so this one will surely get made – thanks for that! ;-)

    This pattern will look stunning under a V-neck jacket – almost like yester-year’s old dickeys. ;-) I can just see this as one of those “wear-everyday-in-a-different-way” type of clothes that one can’t do without – not at home and not when travelling!

    Marvellous! Thanks a million for sharing! ;-)

    • Hi Sheetal! I’m glad you like this. You could make a rectangular version, but you’d have to modify the ends of the rows so that you didn’t decrease by one pattern repeat each time.

  17. I love this pattern-thank you so much for sharing! I am a relative beginner but am just about to try and stitch it. I would prefer to use a double knit yarn but wouldn’t know how to adapt the pattern. Any help gratefully received :-) Let you know how I get on!

    • Hi Isabel! You can use dk yarn and a size 4mm hook (or whatever is recommended on the ballband). The pattern repeat of the scarf iss 11, so if you subtract multiples of 11 from the starting chain, the pattern will still work, you’ll just have less repeats. You’re doubling your hook size so probably need to approximately halve the stitch count – I’d take of 15 repeats which is 11×15 chains = 165chains. 386-165=221 initial chain length. Check your chain is abut the right length before doing row 1! Remember blocking will stretch it out bigger. Hope you get on ok! :)

      • Hi! Thankyou for your help. I have started with the 4ply yarn to see if I can manage the stitches! If I can do the stitches I will be amazed (beginner!) I would like to use a lovely dk yarn I have so I hopefully will gave more than one. I really do love this design. Let you know how I get on. Thankyou

      • Can’t believe it but I’ve completed the shawl without any problems! Its slightly shorter in length than yours by 6cm but I like it :-) I wanted to ask help please. I’ve only blocked snowflakes before so am wondering what the best way to pin it is. Do I pin top and bottom or on all sides please?
        Any tips would be greatfuly received.

  18. Esther, your pattern is genius. I love it.
    I am finished with the body, but a bit confused about the button hole start. Is the second paragraph where you start “now work back down….an additional row before BH R1? Thank you

    • Hi Susie! That paragraph is just meant to describe what you’ll be doing in BH R1. I just wanted to add some notes so that it was clear where to work the row. Sorry if it was confusing!

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  20. AWESOME pattern! I’ve crocheted for years however I’m still a beginner!!! I think I will try and tackle this project as it is so beautiful. I do have a question, I don’t understand what blocking is – any tips?

    • Hi Dianne! I’m glad you like this! Blocking is a process by which you shape whatever you have made. Usually you wet your item and then pin it to shape, or pin it to shape and then spray it with water, and leave it to dry. It is a great technique for opening out lace, straightening edges, and hiding mistakes! (Google it for more info on different kinds of blocking for different fibres).

  21. This looks like a lovely pattern and my fingers are itching to give it a try. Just wanted to thank you for such a beautiful pattern – thanks for sharing!

  22. This scarf is beautiful. I am almost done making this and I am stuck on BE R1. My chain 3 count is not working out. I keep coming up with 32. Any ideas on what could be wrong. All other counts came out OK. Help if you can.

    • Hi Bernice! Glad you like this. Your count could be out for a few reasons – maybe you worked less rows of the pattern (althoguh as your other counts came out ok this doesn’t seem likely) or you have missed a few stitches? In any case I wouldn’t worry about it too much because this is a plain crochet edge designed to hold the buttons, which can be sewn on anywhere so it is unlikely to be noticeable if it isn’t perfect!

  23. Hallo Esther, thanks for this beautiful pattern. I belong to a crochet- group here in the Netherlands and some members prefer following patterns in their own language. I wonder, would you allow me to translate your pattern into Dutch (with full reference to you and your blog of course). Thanks for your time, best wishes.

    • Hi Donna! I do allow translations as long as they link back to me :) Also I like to link to them for any readers who prefer an alternate language version. So if you do translate it then please let me know so I can update my post! :)

      • Thanks for getting back to me so quickly – and thanks for allowing me to translate your pattern. I won’t be getting started on it straight away, but in a couple of weeks I will be on vacation and I will do it then. Yes, I will let you know when it is done and checked by Dutch speakers for accuracy. It would be great to have it linked to on your website. Thanks once again – happy creating to you and I will get back to you when finished.

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