I used a lovely soft merino wool to add warmth to this lightweight sweater, which will be worn spring-autumn. Yes, unfortunately British summer nights often require sweaters, but I will not be sorry now I have this zigzag striped one to snuggle up in!
I really liked the simple stitch on this chevron stitch cardigan, but I had a lot of trouble with pattern. A quick look at a few people’s pattern notes on Ravelry told me I was not alone!
The issues I had were:
- The neckline was too close fitting and had no give
- The yoke expanded too quickly and came out frilly like a ruff
- The sleeve underarm was not stretchy enough
- No shaping for the waist – I like a close fit
- I actually wanted a sweater, not a cardigan!
So in this sweater pattern I have fixed the problems I had with the original cardigan.
I have made this pattern in the 36” size, all the other sizes I worked out with a bit of maths. Please let me know if you make a different size how it works, and if you have any problems, because this is the first time I have written down a sweater pattern! The pattern is designed with negative ease; mine did stretch a little after blocking, although this will depend on your wool.
Hooks: 6.0mm, 5.5mm, 5.0mm
Wool: Debbie Bliss Rialto DK; I used 200g cream, 100g navy, and 100g purple (with leftovers) for 36” with stripes, and with ¾ length sleeves.
See my pattern notes for abbreviations (I use standard US notation).
The sweater is worked in the round from the top down, turning the work after the completion of each round. I added stripes after the completion of the yoke (approx. 10 rounds), changing colours every round, to show off the chevron stitch pattern. Colour changing is not detailed in the pattern below, if you want stripes, just change colours after a complete round when you are ready to work them in!
Gauge Swatch: Using a size 6.0mm hook, chain 23
Row 1: sk 3 ch (counts as dc), 4dc, sk 2 ch, 4dc, ch2, 4dc, sk 2 ch, 3dc, (2dc) into last ch, turn (20sts)
Row 2: ch 3, 4dc, sk 2 st, 3dc, (dc, ch2,dc) into ch sp, 3dc, sk 2 st, 3dc, (2dc) into turning ch, turn (20sts)
Repeat row 2 a few times and measure gauge. 1 pattern repeat (8dc+2ch) = 2.5” (6.35cm)
Sizes: 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48 inch bust. Please note I have only tested the 36” size. Update: June 2013: Please see this post on altering sleeve widths if you are making a larger size (42 inch bust and above).
Begin with a 5.0mm hook.
Fsc 75 (80, 85, 90, 95, 100), join with a sl-st, turn.
Round 1: ch3 (counts as hdc+2ch), *hdc, hdc, sk-st, hdc, hdc, ch2, repeat from * around, hdc, hdc, sk-st, hdc, join with a sl-st (do not turn work) (90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, sts)
Round 2: ch3 (counts as a dc), (dc, ch2,2dc) into ch-sp, dc, sk 2 sts, dc, (dc, ch2, dc) into ch-sp, dc, sk 2 sts, dc, *(2dc,ch2,2dc) into ch sp, dc, sk2 sts, dc, (dc, ch2,dc) into ch sp, dc, sk 2 sts, dc, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st into starting chain, turn. (105, 112, 119, 126, 133, 140 sts)
Round 3: ch 3 (counts as a dc), *sk 2 sts, dc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into ch sp, dc, sk 2 sts, 2dc, (dc, ch2,dc) into ch sp, 2dc, rep from * around omitting last dc, sl-st into 1st ch to join, 2 sl sts. ch3, turn. (120, 128, 136, 144, 152, 160 sts)
Round 4: *sk 2 sts, 2dc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into ch sp, 2dc, sk2 sts, 2dc, (dc, ch2, dc) into ch sp, 2dc, repeat from * around, join into last ch of row 3, turn. (135, 144, 153, 162, 171, 180 sts)
Round 5: sl-st, ch 3, dc, *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) into ch sp, 2dc, sk2 sts, 3 dc, (dc, ch 2 dc) into ch sp, 3dc, sk 2 sts, 2dc, repeat from * around omitting last 2 dc, join with a sl-st, sl- st, turn (150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 200 sts)
Round 6: ch3, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc, (dc, ch2, dc) into ch sp, 3dc, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st into starting ch, sl st, turn (150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 200 sts)
Round 7: Switch to a 5.5 mm hook. Repeat round 6.
Round 8: Switch to a 6.0 mm hook. Repeat round 6.
Continue with the 6.0mm hook, repeating round 6 until you have enough length to divide for the sleeves. (This was 13 rows for my sweater – check by trying it on!)
I fastened off at this point so that I could switch my join “seam” from centre back to under one arm.
Lay the piece flat and place a marker in the “valley” separating the points as follows:
(4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) points = back, 3 points = sleeve, (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) points = front, 3 = sleeve.
Join at the sleeve to work in pattern across the back in pattern as before and ch1:
Sleeve insertion round: *3dc, (dc, ch2, dc) 3dc, sk2, repeat from * until marker. ^Now use the next st as 1st ch to fsc10. Join at the next marker with a sc. Sk 1 st, repeat from * again to next marker. Repeat from ^ to finish, join with a sl-st and fasten off.
Remaining body rounds: join in the 6th fsc under a sleeve (making sure you are working in the correct direction – the work should be turned from the row below).
ch3, 3dc, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc, (dc, ch2, dc) into ch sp, 3dc, repeat from * around, dc, ch2, join with a sl-st into starting ch, turn (110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160 sts)
Continue to work this round until the length covers your bust. To taper the sweater to fit your body at the waist:
- Size down to a 5.5 mm hook for a round or two, then a 5.0mm hook for a round or 2.
- Perform a decrease row, then work in pattern until you reach the point where your waist widens
- Perform an increase row, restoring the original pattern row, and work in pattern
- Size up your hook to increase further over your hips as necessary.
Decrease row: Decide where you wish to nip in your garment – either one on either side under the arm (2 decrease places), or at two points centralised on the front and back (4 decrease places) and mark the “valley” on either side of the decrease point. Work in original pattern until you reach a marker, then work the pattern decrease over a point as follows, beginning from the sk 2 sts part of the pattern: dc, dc2tog, (dc, ch2,dc) into ch sp, dc2tog, dc, (continue in original pattern then repeat at next marker).
Working the next row in pattern means there will now only be 3 dc’s on either side of the points you have just decreased, rather than the original 4dc’s.
Increase row: This is to reverse the decrease rows. Similarly to how the yoke was expanded, just (2dc, ch2,2dc) into the ch sps of the points where you previously performed a decrease to return your st count to the original.
Sleeves: join into the 6th chain of fsc. Ch 3, dc, sk2sts (to main body of piece) *3dc, (dc, ch2, dc), 3dc, sk2 sts, repeat from * 3 times, sk 2 sts (1 on main body, 1 fsc) 4dc, ch2, join with a sl st, turn (40 sts).
Continue working the sleeves in pattern, trying on as you go. You may wish to decrease the sleeves similarly to the main body so that they taper in, particularly if you are making full length sleeves. Make sure your hand fits through ok!
Weave in all ends and block as desired.
I would appreciate feedback on this, my first sweater pattern! Let me know what you think below. :)
115 thoughts on “Chevron stripes 3-season sweater”
Thank you SO much for the pattern and your quick responses to my questions =) I think it turned out lovely- http://www.pinterest.com/sarahguilbert77/things-i-have-made/ . Thanks again!
Ooh good, I’m glad you’re pleased with it! :)
Reblogged this on More Aah than F*** and commented:
Love this sweater – I have a similar one in pink and grey. I will put a pic on for you to see. Great minds think alike! I made mine a couple of years ago.
Thanks Sally! Pink and grey sounds lovely. :)
Pingback: Make It Crochet – Free Crochet Pattern: Chevron Stripes Sweater
Thanks for the link! :)
This is so pretty! I’m thinking of making it more into a yoked sleeveless sweater for my hotter climate, I’ll have to tinker with it.
Hi Amy! Yes I think that would work well! Let me know how you get on. :)
HI. I LIKE VERY MUCH. Can you post the pattern of this sweater on Youtube, please. I am beginner. It would help me a lot. Thank you kindly.
Thank you Elena! Unfortunately I don’t have the capability of posting videos just yet. But please let me know if you have any problems with the pattern, as I am happy to help where I can! :)
Hi, again. I don t know where and how are the increases.After I did the fondation single crochet? Thank you .
Hi Elena! I’m assuming we are looking at Round 1 here. The chains count as stitches. The repeat pattern calls for a stitch worked in every fsc apart from one skipped st, and also contains a ch2 – so there is one st added in total for each pattern repeat, which is why the stitch count increases. I hope that helps!
Please , post o photo larger, because I need to see the stitches better, and a diagram , only for the cream part. Thank you.
Hi Elena, I will bear that in mind, thanks for the feedback!
Thank you for understanding. I wait your answer.
Hello! Lovely sweater but I don’t understand how you make the neckline. Are there any decreases made or how do you shape it to fit? Hope you understand what I mean, I’m swedish and not too good at english 😊
Hi! This sweater is crocheted from the neck down – the pattern grows in the first few rows so no increases needed!
Your sweater is gorgeous. Thank you for sharing the pattern.
Did you use the DK or Aran Rialto?
It was DK Rialto. Sorry for not mentioning in the post, I need to update that! :)
I made it in 3 days. I did like you said and tried it on every few rounds and formed it just for me. I used regular worsted weight but kept sleeves short. (Im in texas). Love this and it was easy!! Im starting another one tonight in different colors!! Great pattern!
Wow you’re fast! I’m glad you are pleased with it. :)
Esther since the first top i made with your pattern, it has become my favorite!! I have made 4 in different combos of colors. Starting at the neck is genius!! 😊
Wow! That’s great! I’m glad you like it so much. If you like top down patterns I recommend any by Doris Chan. She’s a genius at designing this way. :)
Comments are closed.