Chevron stripes 3-season sweater

Sweater & skirt

Sweater & jeans

I used a lovely soft merino wool to add warmth to this lightweight sweater, which will be worn spring-autumn.  Yes, unfortunately British summer nights often require sweaters, but I will not be sorry now I have this zigzag striped one to snuggle up in!

Chevron stripes!

Chevron stripes!

I really liked the simple stitch on this chevron stitch cardigan, but I had a lot of trouble with pattern.  A quick look at a few people’s pattern notes on Ravelry told me I was not alone!

The issues I had were:

  • The neckline was too close fitting and had no give
  • The yoke expanded too quickly and came out frilly like a ruff
  • The sleeve underarm was not stretchy enough
  • No shaping for the waist – I like a close fit
  • I actually wanted a sweater, not a cardigan!

So in this sweater pattern I have fixed the problems I had with the original cardigan.

I have made this pattern in the 36” size, all the other sizes I worked out with a bit of maths.  Please let me know if you make a different size how it works, and if you have any problems, because this is the first time I have written down a sweater pattern!  The pattern is designed with negative ease; mine did stretch a little after blocking, although this will depend on your wool.

Sweater & skirt :)

Sweater & skirt :)

The back

The back

Materials:

Hooks: 6.0mm, 5.5mm, 5.0mm

Wool: Debbie Bliss Rialto DK; I used 200g cream, 100g navy, and 100g purple (with leftovers) for 36” with stripes, and with ¾ length sleeves.

Pattern:

See my pattern notes for abbreviations (I use standard US notation).

The sweater is worked in the round from the top down, turning the work after the completion of each round.  I added stripes after the completion of the yoke (approx. 10 rounds), changing colours every round, to show off the chevron stitch pattern.  Colour changing is not detailed in the pattern below, if you want stripes, just change colours after a complete round when you are ready to work them in!

Gauge Swatch:  Using a size 6.0mm hook, chain 23

Row 1: sk 3 ch (counts as dc), 4dc, sk 2 ch, 4dc, ch2, 4dc, sk 2 ch, 3dc, (2dc) into last ch, turn (20sts)

Row 2: ch 3, 4dc, sk 2 st, 3dc, (dc, ch2,dc) into ch sp, 3dc, sk 2 st, 3dc, (2dc) into turning ch, turn (20sts)

Repeat row 2 a few times and measure gauge.  1 pattern repeat (8dc+2ch) = 2.5” (6.35cm)

Sizes: 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48 inch bust. Please note I have only tested the 36” size. Update: June 2013: Please see this post on altering sleeve widths if you are making a larger size (42 inch bust and above).

Sweater Pattern

Begin with a 5.0mm hook.

Fsc 75 (80, 85, 90, 95, 100), join with a sl-st, turn.

Round 1: ch3 (counts as hdc+2ch), *hdc, hdc, sk-st, hdc, hdc, ch2, repeat from * around, hdc, hdc, sk-st, hdc, join with a sl-st (do not turn work) (90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, sts)

Round 2: ch3 (counts as a dc), (dc, ch2,2dc) into ch-sp, dc, sk 2 sts, dc, (dc, ch2, dc) into ch-sp, dc, sk 2 sts, dc, *(2dc,ch2,2dc) into ch sp, dc, sk2 sts, dc, (dc, ch2,dc) into ch sp, dc, sk 2 sts, dc, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st into starting chain, turn. (105, 112, 119, 126, 133, 140 sts)

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as a dc), *sk 2 sts, dc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into ch sp, dc, sk 2 sts, 2dc, (dc, ch2,dc) into ch sp, 2dc, rep from * around omitting last dc, sl-st into 1st ch to join, 2 sl sts.  ch3, turn. (120, 128, 136, 144, 152, 160 sts)

Round 4: *sk 2 sts, 2dc, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into ch sp, 2dc, sk2 sts, 2dc, (dc, ch2, dc) into ch sp, 2dc, repeat from * around, join into last ch of row 3, turn. (135, 144, 153, 162, 171, 180 sts)

Round 5: sl-st, ch 3, dc, *(2dc, ch2, 2dc) into ch sp, 2dc, sk2 sts, 3 dc, (dc, ch 2 dc) into ch sp, 3dc, sk 2 sts, 2dc, repeat from * around omitting last 2 dc, join with a sl-st, sl- st, turn (150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 200 sts)

Round 6:  ch3, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc, (dc, ch2, dc) into ch sp, 3dc, repeat from * around, join with a sl-st into starting ch, sl st, turn (150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 200 sts)

Round 7: Switch to a 5.5 mm hook.  Repeat round 6.

Round 8: Switch to a 6.0 mm hook.  Repeat round 6.

Continue with the 6.0mm hook, repeating round 6 until you have enough length to divide for the sleeves.  (This was 13 rows for my sweater – check by trying it on!)

I fastened off at this point so that I could switch my join “seam” from centre back to under one arm.

Lay the piece flat and place a marker in the “valley” separating the points as follows:

(4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) points = back, 3 points = sleeve, (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) points = front, 3 = sleeve.

Join at the sleeve to work in pattern across the back in pattern as before and ch1:

Sleeve insertion round: *3dc, (dc, ch2, dc) 3dc, sk2, repeat from * until marker.  ^Now use the next st as 1st ch to fsc10.  Join at the next marker with a sc. Sk 1 st, repeat from * again to next marker.  Repeat from ^ to finish, join with a sl-st and fasten off.

Remaining body rounds: join in the 6th fsc under a sleeve (making sure you are working in the correct direction – the work should be turned from the row below).

ch3, 3dc, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc, (dc, ch2, dc) into ch sp, 3dc, repeat from * around, dc, ch2, join with a sl-st into starting ch, turn (110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160 sts)

Continue to work this round until the length covers your bust.  To taper the sweater to fit your body at the waist:

  • Size down to a 5.5 mm hook for a round or two, then a 5.0mm hook for a round or 2.
  • Perform a decrease row, then work in pattern until you reach the point where your waist widens
  • Perform an increase row, restoring the original pattern row, and work in pattern
  • Size up your hook to increase further over your hips as necessary.

Decrease row:  Decide where you wish to nip in your garment – either one on either side under the arm (2 decrease places), or at two points centralised on the front and back (4 decrease places) and mark the “valley” on either side of the decrease point.  Work in original pattern until you reach a marker, then work the pattern decrease over a point as follows, beginning from the sk 2 sts part of the pattern: dc, dc2tog, (dc, ch2,dc) into ch sp, dc2tog, dc, (continue in original pattern then repeat at next marker).

Working the next row in pattern means there will now only be 3 dc’s on either side of the points you have just decreased, rather than the original 4dc’s.

Decrease row (purple)

Decrease row (purple)

Increase row:  This is to reverse the decrease rows.  Similarly to how the yoke was expanded, just (2dc, ch2,2dc) into the ch sps of the points where you previously performed a decrease to return your st count to the original.

Sleeves: join into the 6th chain of fsc.  Ch 3, dc, sk2sts (to main body of piece) *3dc, (dc, ch2, dc), 3dc, sk2 sts, repeat from * 3 times, sk 2 sts (1 on main body, 1 fsc) 4dc, ch2, join with a sl st, turn (40 sts).

Continue working the sleeves in pattern, trying on as you go.  You may wish to decrease the sleeves similarly to the main body so that they taper in, particularly if you are making full length sleeves.  Make sure your hand fits through ok!

Weave in all ends and block as desired.

I would appreciate feedback on this, my first sweater pattern!  Let me know what you think below. :)

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115 thoughts on “Chevron stripes 3-season sweater

  1. I think I’m going to start working on this tonight! Thank you for making this available!

  2. Gorgeous sweater ! Thanks for your efforts in writing it all out to share. I’ve been looking for crocheted chevron sweater pattern for women. I may use a non-wool, or a wool blend, as I live in the south… and while I love the stripes, for mine, I might go solid. I love that you’ve nipped in the waist a bit, adding some shaping.

    • Thanks Jess! I used Debbie Bliss Rialto DK (merino wool). The effect is quite lacy which helps give stretch as the sweater is close fitting. I would not recommend anything lighter than dk, you can go up to aran (worsted) if you prefer, but make sure your gauge comes out ok if you do! :)

  3. Hi…..great pattern…I really love this….I think u really “make my day creative”….Thank u so much!!!

  4. Okay 2 questions (which are probably obvious to anyone who has used any garment making crochet patterns before), does FSC = foundation chain or some such thing? Does SK mean skip? I have bought some Sirdar 60%cotton/40% acrylic yarn in cream to try this out in, Hobbycraft 3 for 2 being handy (also it is only a mile away so the closest thing I have to a local yarn store!). You may find you get many more questions before I am done…

    • No problem. fsc= foundation single crochet, which is a chain and single crochet worked at the same time to give a stretchy foundation (useful for necklines!) the best demo I have come across is this video:

      sk does indeed mean skip. I am using US terminology, not UK (sorry if that is confusing!).
      I love Hobbycraft 3for2! :)

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  6. Stunning, can’t wait to give it a go although it may be a bit advanced for me. Off to the wool shop.

  7. Hi, I’m really looking forward to wearing my finished sweater – especially as yours looks so great. I was hoping you could clarify some of your terms. When you say 3dc, do you mean 3dc in next stitch or 1dc in next 3 stitches?
    Also, row 5 has groups of 5dc and row 6 groups of 4dc without a decrease in the number of stitches – have I understood that correctly?
    Thanks, Sarah x

    • Hi Sarah. Glad you are having a go at this! When I said 3dc, I meant do one dc in each of the next 3 sts. Well done, you found an error in row 5! There was a rogue additional dc, not sure where that came from! (Sorry to anyone who has had an issue because of this.) I have now corrected it! Thanks for spotting that one for me. Any more problems please let me know! :)

  8. Hi. For some reason, the pattern is not showing up. Do you possibly have another link that will bring it up? thanks!

  9. Thank you for sharing! I am excited about making this sweater and appreciate your corrections. I also like a more tailored fit. I will be using a variegated yarn in warm shades and allowing the texture to show the chevron texture. :)

  10. This sweater is perfect for my Daughter-in-law for Christmas. I cannot wait to start it. Thank you for being so generous with your awesome talent.

  11. Great pattern, absolutely beautiful sweater, thanks so much for sharing.
    I’m to the point where my bust is covered and alas, this thing is pretty tight. Instead of DK weight, I used Caron’s simply soft worsted (on sale.. couldn’t help myself) and, being right between sizes, went with the smaller of the two… Oops! Regardless, I’m enjoying figuring it out (very first crocheted garment) and appreciate your insights.

    I might give this one away and try again, maybe in the 39″ or with a lighter yarn. In the meantime, any suggestions for stretching out the sweater? I used acrylic yarn, not natural fibers

    • Hi Courtney! Well done on your first crochet garment. This sweater is designed to be close fitting, so I would generally advise going up a size if you are between sizes. Not very helpful since you are already part way through, sorry! You could try blocking it out strongly at the end but as you have used acrylic it won’t stretch as much as natural fibres. I suspect your best bet is to restart with a size up or find a very lucky, slightly smaller friend. :)

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  13. You are a DOLL for sharing this!!! I love this pattern SO MUCH!!! Thank you thank you!!! ~virtual hug from a stranger~

  14. Thanks so much for the pattern! I’ve started it today but found an error in row 2. The end stitch count for 45″ bust on that row says 113 and I believe it should be 133 since the previous row ended at 114 ;-). I’m so looking forward to completing this sweater! Thanks again.

  15. Thanks for the pattern and your great blog. I have a question about the yarn debbie bliss Rialto, what one is it? Dk, 4ply? It is probably obvious but I can’t tell!

  16. Thanks for this lovely pattern and wonderful blog. What type of Debbie bliss Rialto yarn did you use; dk, 4ply? It’s probably obvious but I can’t tell!

  17. Hello Esther! Thank you so much for this gorgeous pattern!!! I love it! I’m having a little trouble understanding the before you get to the sleeve part. Please give further details. I have no one to ask who’s as advanced in crocheting as I. I’ve been hooked on crochet for 9 lovely years.

  18. Ok. I think I’ve got it! Markers & stitch counting. Check! Doing this to wear tomorrow. Wish me luck. ;-) P.S. I fudged rounds 2-6 a little. My stitch count was off, no biggie, lol. I fixed it. Eek! I’m going to try something really out there. Bare with me. I’m going to do it in a handmade type of variegated yarn. You know, when you add colors at random parts.

    • Hi Dee! Glad you managed to get sorted ok. Let me know if you are struggling again! Variegated yarn sounds lovely, I guess it means you don’t have to change colours for the stripes! :)

  19. Yeah, I’ll try to send a pic when I wear it tomorrow. If you’re connected to facebook you can see it on Sustainabilityorbust. Just look for the pic with 5 kids two older & 3 younger. Thanks again.

  20. Ok. Turns out the reason I felt the need to fudge the stitches was because I was only counting the dc’s. I added the 120 dc’s with the 30 chains… & voila! 150 stitches. Lmbo! It’s 2:50 am in NYC & I’m still doing this darn sweater!

  21. I won’t give up, though. After redoing the 1st 6 rounds several times (literally) I’m still pushing to complete it by 7 am. Besides, I have to wear it to my mother’s to show off the reason I tabled crocheting everything else for a moment. Wink, wink…; *)

  22. Absolutely love this pattern. I have made several in solid and marbled Yarn Bee Soft Secret brand yarns. I am getting ready to start my first striped sweater and I was wondering what row you started your color change? Thank you so much for sharing this pattern.

    • Thanks Joni, what great feedback! I’d love to try this in marbled yarn myself. My stripes started on row 10. I was trying to mirror the line you’d get from a strapless gown with sleeves, if you see what I mean… But a warmer version! You can start the stripes where ever you like though, just remember that the increase rows may show more if you start right at the beginning. :)

  23. Hi thanks for writing this pattern out. I’m wanting to me this bit wondered how long this roughly took you to make? Thanks x

    • Hi Lulu! I was figuring it out as I went along, so the time it took me is probably not representative. Also your size chosen and sleeve length will affect it. If I make it again I would expect to take about 20hours. I think I crochet quite slowly compared to a lot though! Weaving in the ends takes a bit of time too. If you are looking to save time, try doubling up the thickness of the stripes i.e. do two rows in each colour, or just use a variegated yarn. Plain looks good too!

    • Hi Martha! The ch23 instructions are for the gauge swatch. I suggest you make this to check your sweater will come out the correct size for you. You can find the instructions for starting the sweater below the gauge swatch – begin with fsc 75 (or more for sizes larger than 33″).

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  25. I love this sweater. Was wondering if a sport weight yarn would work? I have some knit picks brava sport yarn. Do you think it would work?

    • Hi Jodi! You can give sport weight yarn a try. If you use the hook sizes I have recommended it will be very lacy. Alternatively size down your hooks and make a size or two larger- make the gauge swatch and then adjust accordingly. If you need help with this let me know!

  26. I started this sweater this weekend, and I’m excited to finish it. I’m confused on the remaining body rounds after the sleeve insertion, though. Do I start the round in the 6th fsc of the sleeve, and am I essentially skipping a (dc,ch2,dc) once I get to the front?

    • Hi Allie! Glad you are enjoying this project. When you mark up for the sleeve insertion round the 10fsc should be connected into the “dc, sk2 sts, dc” section. So yes, you join on the 6th fsc, the first ch3 counts as a dc, then do 3 more dcs. So you have worked the 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th sts of the 10fsc. You then sk the 10th st, sk the first st on the main body of the work and do 3 more dc’s. Then the (dc, ch2, dc) is worked into the ch-sp and you can continue in pattern. I hope this helps, it sounds to me like you may have connected the 10fsc for the sleeves into the points rather than the “dips”. Let me know if you need more help!

    • Hi Ellie!
      You should have made 14 sts before you get to the pattern repat section (the *). Then you keep repeating this section around (it is 14 sts each time). For the smallest size this is 6 times – so you have made 7 lots of 14 sts – 98 total. Then you repeat the first 7 sts from the *, finishing with the sk 2 sts, and join with a sl-st into the ch. so I make that 98 plus 7 which is 105 sts. but if you counted the sl-st as well as the starting chain you could count it as 106 – it depends how you were taught to count them I guess! Sorry for any confusion. Let me know if that didn’t sort it out for you!

  27. Hi,
    This is my first time attempting a sweater and I love your pattern. For the Sleeve Insertion Round – there is only two FSC right? and my other problem is a bit like Allie’s above. When I get to the front part of the sweater on the Remaining body rounds, and I get to the Fsc, I have no idea how to get the pattern to work ( I have undone about 5 times as I think my count is off). Thanks for any help you can give me

    • Thanks Catherine! Sorry you are having a bit of trouble though. You should have 2 sets of fsc – one for each sleeve. You will do 10 fsc for each of these (smaller sizes – for larger sizes you may opt for 20fsc). The body pattern is in repeats of 10sts – you effectively do 4dc,ch2, 4dc (and sk2sts) for each repeat. I’m not sure from what you say whether you having trouble going from the fsc section to the main body or from the main body to the fsc section on the second sleeve. If it is the fsc section to the main body, please have a look at my answer to Allie above. To go from the body section to the second fsc section, you should have just worked(from last ch sp) dc, ch2, dc, 3dc. Then there should be one more st before the 1st fsc. Sk both of these (i.e. the sk2sts part of the pattern) then make 4dc (i.e. one dc into the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th fsc’s). Ch2, and work 4 more dc (one into each of the 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th fsc’s). Now skip the 10th fsc, and 1st st on the main body (counts as sk2 sts part of pattern st). Now you should be able to work 3dc, (dc, ch2 dc) into next chain sp, and continue on in pattern. I hope that helps but let me know if not!

  28. Hello! First off, THANK YOU for posting this pattern!!! I have just completed my own version of this lovely sweater in raspberry and plum wool, and it turned out just beautifully. I made the middle-size version (for the 39 inch bust) with long sleeves, and the fit is perfect. My only concern is that I waited a few rows too many to start the sleeve (thinking that, since I was going with the bigger size, I should lower the sleeve hole a bit), however adding 3 more rows to the yoke has made the underarms too low, and I cannot easily raise my arms while wearing the sweater. But, it’s not a turn off, and I fully intend to wear my new sweater with pride. I also have plans in mind to make at least one more, in cotton for warmer weather, so thank you again for being so willing to share!

    • Hi Emily! Really pleased you like the sweater. :) sorry about the armholes- but thanks for letting us all know, hopefully other people will read this and be careful not to go too far! I have seen this issue with other sweaters also, I wonder if it is because the weight of the body stretches out the top slightly once done. From now on I think I’ll recommend to make it tight under the arms with the expectation that stretching will happen because of the weight of the sweater and blocking. :)

  29. I want to make this using Sensations Angel Hair yarn. It’s listed as Bulky weight, and it’s a fuzzy soft 50% acrylic, 28% nylon, 22% wool blend. Any idea what size hook I should use? Or will using this yarn just make a cascade of changes to the pattern?

    • Hi! That sounds like lovely yarn! Your best bet is to make the gauge swatch using a size 6 hook. If it comes up big you can try making a smaller size sweater, assuming you don’t want to size down the hook given the heavier weight of yarn. Let me know if you need help working out which size to go to!

  30. Thank you SO much for this pattern! I have never made a sweater before, and I am a little confused at the “markers.” What do you use to mark them? And what does (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) points = back, 3 points = sleeve, (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) points = front, 3 = sleeve. mean? The 4th point you mark, the 5th point you mark, but there are two 6th points? Thank you for your help-this is lovely and generous of you to share!

    • Hi Sarah! Wow how exciting you picked my sweater first! Stitch markers are just twiddly plastic loops you can buy if you like. Alternately people use paperclips or sometimes a contrast yarn looped through the stitch you want to mark. Then when you crochet along to the marker you can follow the next instruction! In this case the markers show where to stop crocheting the sweater in the repeat pattern and make the under arm chain instead, and then where to join it. The numbers in brackets are relevant to the size you are making. The first number in the bracket is for the 33 inch size, the second is for the 36 inch size, etc. if you are making the 36 inch size for example, you will have 16 pattern repeats (or points of the chevrons), 5 for the back, 3 for the 1st sleeve, 5 for the front, and 3 for the second sleeve. When you add in the chains for the underarms and continue to work the body you will have a sweater with capped sleeves! Then you’ll go back and add the sleeves after- to whatever length you prefer. Hope this helps and let me know if you have any problems!

  31. Hi Esther,

    Yes, that helped with that part and it makes sense =) But now I am lost on the FSC even though I have read and re-read your advice to the ladies above. I guess I don’t understand this part:

    Join at the sleeve to work in pattern across the back in pattern as before and ch1:
    ^are you just basically sewing the sleeve together at the dips?

    Sleeve insertion round: *3dc, (dc, ch2, dc) 3dc, sk2, repeat from * until marker. ^Now use the next st as 1st ch to fsc10. Join at the next marker with a sc. Sk 1 st, repeat from * again to next marker. Repeat from ^ to finish, join with a sl-st and fasten off.
    ^is the fsc10 just separate from the sweater portion? I tried to go fsc around a sleeve and it is way more than 10 stitches..I can do the *3c (dc, ch2, dc) 3dc sk2 part around the back fine but I just don’t know what to do when I get to the sleeve markers.

    Sorry for all the questions but I really do appreciate all your help! It might be a good thing that I’m stuck so then I actually put it down and go to sleep =))

    • Hi Sarah – no problem, I hope you got some sleep! So you should be at the stage where your markers are in place. I have recommended fastening off the yarn and then re-joining it so that the place where you turn the work is under one arm and shows less than if it continued all the way down the back. So where I have said “Join at the sleeve” I am telling you to join your yarn at the back sleeve stitch marker so that you can work the pattern as usual across the back until the second marker (sorry, I realise this was confusing). Now when you get to the second marker the fsc is indeed separate from the sweater – fsc is used because it is stretchy compared to a regular chain, but you could do a ch10 instead of an fsc 10 if you find it easier – it won’t wreck the sweater! This chain (or fsc length) will be the underarm of the sweater and needs joining at the 3rd st marker. Then you can work the across the front in pattern as before, and then work the chain for the second sleeve in the same way, joining it where the first st marker was. So this round does not make the sleeves longer – they are worked separately once you have finished the body. I hope this helps – let me know if you are still struggling!

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  33. I am currently making this sweater, and it is my very first sweater attempt. I am having a bit of an issue with the fsc under the arms and came on to see if anyone else was having the same issue. You did respond to someone else’s question in the comment section, and I think that should be the *click* I need to make it all work out-you may want to consider adding that answer up into the pattern for others that have zero sweater making skills. If not for that one little tweak,so far, this is a great pattern and the FIRST FIRST sweater pattern that has caught my eye enough to actually attempt it! :) Well done.

    • Thanks Shawn for your feedback! That’s really helpful. I will be issuing an update shortly! Really pleased this caught your eye enough to make you give it a go, and well done on your first attempt! Please let me know if you gave any other issues as I’m happy to help.

      • I completed the sweater today (posted a photo to ravelry). I really really love how it turned out. I did the smallest size, not sure if you still need people to comment on your sizing changes, but for me it worked out, but if I had it to do again (and I do plan on making another) I would omit the fsc under the arms. It was fitting just fine without them, but since this was my first sweater attempt I figured I should just stick with the pattern. I wound up doing a lot of decreases under the arms and I do like it, regardless. :) Great job and thanks for sharing with us, this lovely pattern! :)

      • OMG I love this pattern so much I’ve now finished my second and working on my third. What fun it is to change up the color combos! :) The second one worked perfect for my size without the underarm fsc.

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